Project Clio 16v

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

I'm guessing by dry joints you mean where there isn't any solder holding it in? Haveing checked all the pins of the resistors and all the other components in their they seem ok. I don't know if you meant to check all the other bits you can see (just the blobs of solder but can't see any component if you know what I mean) there is one particular one which has a big dimple in it where the solder seems to have buldged down if you know what I mean, but no actual hole as such.

Having had a closer look it seems as though a few of the bits and pieces have had water on them in the past though as they have little white bits on them similar to the corosion on the outside of the case, but not just blow on - it seems to be from that bit itself.

I don't know if any of that will make sense without pics but I'll try and get some later anyway to show you what I mean.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

healthy solder joints will be bulbous and shiny.

poor/dry joints will be dusty, dimpled and just not look right.

They are a major cause of headaches on cars tbh. I spend a lot of time sorting them from keyfobs to ecus to light clusters.

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

There are loads that are slightly dimpled tbh, but just one in particular that is really odd looking compared to the rest of them. As I say I'll get a pic later on. I think I'll just have to fork out for the code though. The irritating thing is that I phoned a place out in livingston (reg cardy same as other one I asked) and they say they get the code for Â£9.99 rather than Â£15, but for the fuel money and hassle I would be as well going down the road.

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

I've been doing some searching through some old post etc and have spoken to a few people who have put a Ph1 ECU in their Ph2 clio and apparently the immobiliser light never comes on at all with the Ph1 ECU but the car starts and runs as usual. From this I have pretty much taken it that the ECU is not the problem and will move onto other possibilities.

First step I am going to try is to clean up all the earthing points in the engine bay. I know where all the gearbox earths are and earth near where the radiator mounts, but where are the rest of them? Any I should particularly think of that could affect the injection system?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

just bin the thing!

cut your losses on it.

You obviously broke something as it worked then it never.

The clios pretty shit loom wise, theres another ECU/main loom earth on the front of the gearbox just beside the filler plug.

waggle the loom whilst someone cranks it over might actually start, may be a broken wire somewhere.

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

Yeah, I'm starting to think you are right - just so bloody infuriating as it was so close to getting sorted and I can't think what I did to fuck it up.

We shall see, even if I do get it running I think I may well sell it and move away from clios - had enough of them, but at the same time I would love to have a mint 16v, just that will clearly never be this one.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

the cliso pish mate, nothign but problems look on williams clio or cliosport. Then look at the problems the 19's get, nowhere near what the cliso get!

Also the 19's do a lot more miles before breaking

my 19 has done 100k somethings broke

compared to

my clios on 50k, I have already done the headgasket, radiator, alt, power steering pump 3 times, dog bone every 6 weeks and now theres a hole in the block

should have took the 1.2 eh! lol

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

Quick question, I've taken the injector off again and found that if I put one probe on the voltmeter to earth and the other to one of the two connectors on the loom connector to the injector I do actually get slightly over 12v. It doesn't matter which of the two bits I connect it to on the loom though, it give the same reading for both of them. Before I had presummed I was supposed to put the voltmeter across the two of these pins and by doing that I wasn't getting much moe than about 0.2v. Was I doing it incorrectly before by measuring across the two points on the connector? and would that mean that actually the injector is getting the proper voltage to it?

My old man is getting majorly pissed off about this sitting on the driveway so I need to get it going and out of the way asap.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

thats battery voltage. The injectors are switch to earth so they will have a supply positive to them when the ignitions on.

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

em (confused), so is what I described how they are supposed to be or not? Basically if I have the voltage measured across the injector and earth on the battery then it jumps up slightly above twelve when I first turn the ignition on, then it goes back to 0, then it jumps bewtween about 10 to 12ish volts (back and forth) when I am cranking. Is this how it should be, and if not is it likely to be an earthing problem meaning theres not 12v appearing between the two points on the connector (or am I talking shite again?)?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

yes that means the injectors are firing as they should.

is there fuel in the thing?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

I thought that said 0 and 12 not 10 and 12. theres a bad connection somewhere.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

in fact are you using a swinging needle or DMM?

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

DMM

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

dmm won't stwitch as fast so I would say thats ok checkign the woltage at the plug should read 0 and only when you crank 12V back and forth.

if its not 12V on the plug (unplug 1 injector not the full lot) then you have an earth issue.

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

well it's just on the one injector that I have been measuring, the rest have been left plugged in. As I say the voltage seems to do exactly as you describe it should, but it does it on both pins of the connector but I had presummed it would only do that on one of them and that one would be earthed all the time - but obviously not. I'm going to check if there's fuel getting pumped up to the injector rail. Which of the two fuel lines do i need to remove and put in a glass jar? is it the one closest to the o/s or n/s?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

the one on the offside matey, the lower one.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

try clamping the return as well, if it then works the pressure regulators duff

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

Took the fuel line off, put it in a glass jar and cranked the engine over but got nothing whatsoever. At least I now know that the problem is theres no petrol getting to the injectors, but now I need to find out why. I tried clamping the return but there was still nothing getting there.

What are the possibilities for no fuel getting there, fucked fuel pump? what else?

EDIT: Also, as you would expect with this car something had to go wrong and I managed to drop the fucking clip from the fuel line down a gap in the inlet manifold and I can't get my hand anywhere near where I think it is - so looks like a trip to renault for this wee clip.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

juts get a fuel line hose clip or even a small jubilee clip, peopel will kick off abotu usign a jubilee clip but I use them and neverhad a peroblem.

well theres no fuel getting through.

But you said before the pumps priming yeah?

the hose may have popped off the pump inside the tank, or the tanks empty.

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

Tank is definately not empty - I've put a good few litres since this started. Yeah, you can hear the pump priming when you turn on the ignition. Is the fuel pump, or the pipe coming off it, the only real possibility?