Project Clio 16v

Retroholic Joined: 27 Feb 2006 Posts: 1000

well, i've never regarded myself as an expert, but if you are cranking over really well, and getting a good spark, then i would say you are lacking fuel, as the only answer, what i would do, is disconnect the fuel line, and try turning over and seeing if you are getting fuel up as near to the cylinders as possible, and to me, if it doesnt there, then i would think its a blockage in the line, and if it spurts out where its disconnect up by the engine, its not getting into the cylinders and plummet for the injector rail being blocked. but thats just what i would do......

Retroholic Joined: 27 Feb 2006 Posts: 1000

does this make sense????

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

you absolutely sure its cranking quick enough?

needs to excede 400 ish rpm to even bother firing the injectors.

The pump priming? is it running whilst cranking?

it won't be a blockage.

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

It definately seems to be cranking as quick as usual, the battery is fully charged and it sounds like it ususally would when turning over. You can hear the pump priming, but how can you check if it's running whilst cranking?

Damn thing, I just can't think why it has suddenly started doing this - could it be an imobiliser problem of some sort?

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

Just tried turning it over agian to see what it's up to and it's only turning over at about 300rpm at the minute. However, the battery has lost a bit of it's charge now as I have been trying it that much and I know that when I first tried it it was definately up to normal turn over speed (and was about 500rpm iirc). One possibility, I suppose, could be that when I put the battery in fully charged it was turning over as it should but without enough petrol in the tank to get it going, but now that there is enough petrol in the tank it's not got enough power in the battery to turn it over.

I'll try and borrow the battery charger from my mate again tomorrow and give that a go. Either that or I'll buy some decent jump leads and put them on from the 1.4. I did try the 1.4 battery in there but the engine hardly turned over at all because it's battery is away down as well, but still has enough to start the 1.4.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

the pump should run when you crank the engine.

Whats the voltage drop to the engine when your cranking it?

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

don't know, I've not got a voltmeter, lol. ***adds to increasing list of things to buy***

I'll see if I can get one tomorrow and let you know as I've been meaning to get one for a while.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

if the voltage drops down to about 10.2 volts when cranking it won't fire, might stutter when yo let off the key though

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

oh, so if the battery doesn't have enough charge to remain above that level it just won't start? Can you check if the fuel pump is working by the amount the voltage drops, how much should the fuel pump take?

I may be havering shite - if so just tell me (though I know it's not like you to just get straight to the point like that Wink

)

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

if the battery voltage or the cranking speed isn't high enough no it just won't start, the engine can crank over slowly right down to 8 or so volts in some cases. But it won't start.

Pump voltage isn't the issue at the moment if you can hear it.

It may turn out to be the badly fitted immob, they are all badly fitted I have yet to see a well installed aftermarket immob.

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

Got a multimeter today (at the crazy price of Â£6, what a rip off Wink

) and I'm borrowing a bettery charager again from a mate tomorrow. Hopefully thats the problem and I can get it started.

If I do get it started I will have to properly bleed the coolant system though, whats the best way to do this? run with cap off, heater on and then open bleed nipple iirc?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

fill it up with the nipple open wiggle the top rad hose abotu you eill feel the air leave it.

Unclip the header tank lift it up and squeeze the hoses.

With the engine ruinning hold the header tank up and squeeze the matrix hoses. should only take a few minutes.

Check the resistance between the engine and the battery, on the clio its normally not to bad, put the leads together and it will probably be about 0.5 ohms on the meter then put the lead on the engine and the othe ron the battery terminal it should be 0.5ohms - 0.7 ish on a good set up, do the same check to the body shell.

To voltage drop it, put the meter on voltage on the 20V scale. Battery neg terminal to the engine bloc, when cranking anything over 1 volts needs sorting.

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

Voltage drop was about 0.6v. Wtih the leads together resistance was about 1ohm and it stayed the same between the battery/block and the btery/body.

Had the battery on the charger which also acts as a jump starter and the car wasn't starting. A couple of times it fired on one cylinder, but only once and only on one cylinder. i.e. it wasn't firing on that cylinder on every rotation, only happened on one particular rotation of the engine.

Any more ideas? Are there any fuses/sensors I can check or is it probably going to be the imobiliser (just the standard renault one thats on there) and if it is, is there any way of disabling it?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

ignition module, but check the crank sensor, check its resistance and that its mounted properly.

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

ok will check the crank sensor now, am I right in thinking thats just the one on the gearbox where the flywheel shows?

What exactly does the ignition module do?

Retroholic Joined: 23 Dec 2005 Posts: 3315

change it

it will do alot by the sounds of your probs

i did mine and it worked

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

and who told you to do that ash? exactly.

yes wee man ontop of the box. resistance around 230 - 280 phoms

ignition module makes it spark and fire the injectors, if its dodgy no go.

Retroholic Joined: 23 Dec 2005 Posts: 3315

yea i was gona add that CH told me! Laughing

it was weird when it went sometimes would run fine if not given many revs somtimes ran like shite like 2 or 3 cylinders then sometimes 1 or somtimes be ok

changed it and had no probs since

also try cleanig up all conectors from filth and try that, my prob only started a day or so after a jet on the engine bay

Level 10 User Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 575

kl, thanks. Cranks sensor is reading 250 ohms. You got any decent ignition modules lying about chris? Just looked on euro car parts and realised they are Â£80 and I don't fancy that.

Is there anything in particuar that can cause it to go, or can they just go at any time?

Thanks for the help btw.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

nope. I have had to find 2 of the fukkas.

Got 3 duds here.

hard to find a decent one these days.

i am usign the rsi;s on the red car, seems to be fine, same part number except for a c instead of a d at the end of it.

Retroholic Joined: 23 Dec 2005 Posts: 3315

i have one Razz