the unknown..... energy lump

Level 4 User Joined: 10 Mar 2004 Posts: 97

hi me again, rity ho, ive removed the head and found the problem witht the head gasket, ive also replaced one exsasust valve, but becasue i was gonna remove one i thought id remove them all,
(here's the first question) since i have removed them i will be re-lapping them so does that mean i have to re-set all the tappets also??? or should i not even bother lapping the good valves back in?

also since i have the head removed, timing belt moved to one side, when it comes top put the had back in what position should it be? i maked on the pully to the top, so i was gonna stick it back in that way, then turn it over by hand to make sure its ok and to get it to TDC to change the timming belt, is that the right thing to do??

timming belt tension slackness, this is gonna be a bit of a bitch to set anyone got any tips??

cheers for any help.
al

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

remove them all, they still out? If so clean them up, if you have cleaned them up then good stuff.

Re-lap them all. This will ensure a good seal which means efficiency = power and economy.

Yes re-set all the gaps, this should be done regardless.

Do not turn the engioen over unless you have clamped the liners with the head off, otherwise a line might rise and its seal will be damaged and the sump will fill with water.

if you want to turn it over then you need to clamp the liners, a headbolt through a deep socket that clamps onto the liners will do the job.

Just put the thing back on the way you should, i.e with the timing marks lined up.

Tension, I set it by hand at 1st then use a screwdriver to lever it round a tad till its right.

Level 8 User Joined: 07 Sep 2004 Posts: 328

how difficult is it to replace timimg belts? Benn wanting to do it on the 1.9td but just a bit nervous incase i balls up. Do you mark the top of evey cog and then replace the belt making sure every mark is at the top?

col

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

yep thats it pretty much. Theres already marks on the engine, on the diesels I can't remember if theres a timing mark on the pump but add your own.

It and easy enouygh job just access can be an arse and on the diesels you need to remove the drivers side mount.

Site Subscriber Joined: 10 Jun 2004 Posts: 2317

I think there is.....but don't quote me on that, i'll have to check tomorrow.

Level 4 User Joined: 10 Mar 2004 Posts: 97

ok i clamped the liners down and took the bottom pully aux/alt belt ting off found the maks on the bottom pully turned it till i all lined up, then i put the head back on tighened it down correctly, then i staerted to put the belt on theis went on very easy, but getting the correct tesion is the hard bit, as i didnt check it before hand i dont have a clue how tight it should be! anyway i roughtly guessed it and turned the engine over by hand, everything seems to be fine, so, i thought before i put the top mount and all the cam covers etc, back on ill turn then engine over with the started and gewt it fired up i had the engine on a jack with a chunk of rubber between it and the jack acting as a tempory engine mout, so i got the g/f to fire the engine up, after a few turns (fuel lines were empty) it fired up but then i saw at the bottom pully that the belt as sliped over about 5mm ish!!
so i got her to knock it off and ive re tighened the blet thinking that it must of been to slack, so i undo the tensioner and re tesion it so that its slightly tighter, got her to tuen it over again, fired up first tim but again afer a few revolutions the belt looked like it wanted to slip of the pullyies, might be 2mm at the bottom pully! no this aint normal! but i can asure you that the belt is what i would class a tight!
what do you recon??
oh, ive done all the above bar re-setting the tappets im gonna do that when everthing is ok, and when the top mount is back on.
cheers for any info
alex.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

tensioner and/or water pump bearings worn.

Level 4 User Joined: 10 Mar 2004 Posts: 97

which is it more lightly to be? can i test em???
and which is the easyiest to change??
and just to make sure that i isnt to slack whne you push on the belt at the palce where you menna test it i would say the blets moving about 4mm, when puched pritty hard, does this sound about right, i know its a bit un acurate way of guaging it but!!!

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

tensioner is easier to change as its only 1 nut.

if the belts not moving over then I'd just leave it.

Sounds a bit tight btw.

Level 4 User Joined: 10 Mar 2004 Posts: 97

yeah ive removed both, the tesioner is just that one ajusment bolt! after removal, both tensioner and water pump turn freely, the tension being quite stiff compared but turns, neither seam to be moving in the bearings, but the water pump does make a slight and i mean slight grinding noise when its turned, do you recon this could be the problem?
i think ill repalce the both to be on the safe side, the pumps off now anyway!
but after two attemps at letting it turn over on the starter, the belt wanted to move over, by allot the first time, this tensioning thing is an arse! how am i gonna get it correct without fucking somthing up?
got told that if its too lose, the obvious will happen, to tight and you fuck the water pump up and half the life of the belt!
any tool which i can use? i cant see that metod in hayes being any good! nor can i get hld of a spring guage thing!
but i made a good tool for the tensioner, a bit like the pic of the one reno dealers use in the haynes, i used a old grinder key and hammerd it to fit the two holes. works a treat!!!!
cheers
alex.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

new pumps cheap enough from gsf, thats probably th eproblem.

tension is looser than you think btw.

Level 4 User Joined: 10 Mar 2004 Posts: 97

hi there, changed both pump and tesioner, but still have the problem of the belt trying to slide over to one side, im thinking its got somthing to do with how tight the belt is, i tryed it with it more losose than i thought it should be and it seemed to be ok for about 30seconds then i turned it over again without playing with it and i had to stop it becasue it had slid over 4mm!!
this is really pissing me off now!
cheers for any info

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

do you have the bottom pulley bolted on?

Level 4 User Joined: 10 Mar 2004 Posts: 97

the thing what hold the other two belts in place????.....no
should i go and try it with that on????.....yes?

i didnt think it would matter, dont need the alt n power steering just while im testing it?
should i try it with that on?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

yes put the pulley on and bolt it up and no leave the belts off.

Let it tickover, with the pulley in place securely it should settle in the middle of the came pulley.

Level 4 User Joined: 10 Mar 2004 Posts: 97

yeah i did it like the above and its 100%thanx chris!!!
nice like cars these clio's.
cheers
alex.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

good stuff.

Clutches are heavy on them due to the stupid route the cable takes though.