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 front bearing on the clio (the one i swaped with the 19's)!
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Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2004 2:22 am

have a look in project Y's progress report and the meganes progress report. Theres a few good pics of the rear brakes in there I took.

Drums are easy enough mate.

Have a look at th epics then ask if theres anythign you are not sure about, easier than me saying everything. And yes I'm lazy.
alex
Level 4 User

Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97

Posted: Wed Dec 15, 2004 2:47 pm

rite got home at about 7.00 and started on the brakes i bought 2front flexi hoses and 2rear wheel cyinders, i started with the wheel cyinders and the fianlly got the rear drums off, they both were leaking, so i swap em both, and only have slight problems getting the hub back on hat to whack it on with a hammer then tighen the rest down with the hub nut, then it was getting late so i bleed the whole system then i tested it, well somthing has fucked up, the car wont drive very well as the hand brake feels like its stuck on all the time, and the hand brake to pull up feels good.
also the whole brakes once the engine was started didnt feel any good also really, the pedal still drops to the floor then feels like its not doing anything!
so what could that be? the hand brake certialy was down when i tried to drvie it, and the brakes are still dodgy. i repaced everything from where i got it in the drum, funny it feels like both are sticking,
any advice??
cheers
alex.
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 2:08 am

adjust the shoes properly.

Take the drums off. Leave the wheel attached to the drum to give leverage.

With the drums off take the adjusters off. They will probably be siezed, So you need to get the threaded adjuster off and free it off. Wind them back in, stick the drum on then press the brakes, should self adjust correctly with some luck if not then pull the drum off wind the adjuster out and refit the drum. Do this a bit at a time until the drum just clears the shoes.

Bleed it properly as well mate, theres air in there. This may take a while btw.
alex
Level 4 User

Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97

Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 6:16 am

been trying to remove the humbs for about an hour they aint coming off im gonna see if i can get hold of some sort off puller, they were an arse to get on never mind coming off!!!
all the insides of the n/s/r looked new anyway so hopfully i wont have that mich troble ajusting things. hopfully.
cheers
alex.
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 6:19 am

you obviously pressed the brake pedal with the drums off and they self adjusted out.

I find my foot does a good job when they are stubborn, boot the wheel and it'll come off.
alex
Level 4 User

Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97

Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 8:17 am

rite, got my uninversal puller from halfords, it didnt fit so i made it fit! and it worked a treat, did what you said above, both adjusers wound back in pritty easily, so ipull all springs back on and then i slid the hub over and tigned the nut, everthing went on too easy! cos now the handbrake donest work!!
any advaice my good friend?

also you know you said to bleed em properbly, i think it am you know, i will let the rears dain for at least a min or two, but ill have another go, also im doing it in the correct order also.
cheers
alex.
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 8:21 am

do the brakes work better now? If the brakes work fine but the handbrakes crap then some muppet has tightened up the handbrake cable under the car. loosen it off get the brakes adjusted right so the pedals fine then adjust the cable so the handbrakes fully on at 4/5 clicks.
alex
Level 4 User

Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97

Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 8:35 am

should i bleed em again now before i test the rears or sould i bleed em after?
cheers
alex
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 8:36 am

well if you are happy they are bled see what its like now.
alex
Level 4 User

Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97

Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 10:48 am

ritey ho, took it for a test drive and now that the hubs had been freed up it was like it used to be as far as the actual braking so thats good, ive made the hand brake be tight after 3/4clicks but still it dont work?!? like it will be tight at 4clicks but it still rolls down my drive?

also after a really good bleeding session, the brakes are ok but the pedal still moves about 2.5" before anything happens, i want it to be full on stoping power at .5", so what should i try now mate?
i still havernt put the front flexi hoses on, try that?
cheers
alex.
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 11:00 am

try the flexis

do you have brake pipe clamps? No ok I assume you have mole grips? Put big sockets over the jaws and clamp the brake pipes. Press the pedal is it solid? It should be.

if not then air or a dodgy M/C, if the pedals fine undo the clamps 1 at a time to isolate the dodgy line
alex
Level 4 User

Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97

Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 11:36 am

ok ill try that tomorow, what do you recon about the hand brake not working now atall, even though its ajusted correctly?
cheers
alex.
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 11:37 am

its obviously not adjusted properly.

When the rear wheels off the ground and you spin it does it stop solid when you press the brake?
alex
Level 4 User

Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97

Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2004 4:10 am

just tried the above, the rears lock up staight away whwn the brakes being pressed and they are off the gound being spun,
so does that mean that the austo ajusters in the drums are fine and i need to mess about with the handbrake mecanism more? ie move the bolt futher towards the handbrake? the hand brake dose lock out at about 4clicks and can sligtly hold the cars waight if the car aint on a steep hill, so i think ill try and ajust it more,
and im gonna try the mole grips on the flexi hoses today also, ill let you know i how i get on,
one thing i have noticed mate is on the n/s/f disc there seems to be a only the middle 45%of the disc being used, as if the brake pad was only half the width on the disc, becasue there is slight rusty bits above and bellow the middle 45% of the disc, when i trying th tmole grips on the flexi hoses ill see what the condition of the rear of the dics is like,
the o/s/f disc is 100% ie the whole disc surface is being touched by the pad during brakeing, this i think could be whats pulling the car over to the right during hard braking, what do you think? think ill swap the pads over first with some ones of an older caliper just to check.
cheers
alex.
alex
Level 4 User

Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97

Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2004 4:38 am

just tried the mole grips on the flexi hoses trick and with the engine started and me pressing on the brakes the pedal was hard after about half an inch of travel which is perfect if it would stay like that,
after a few presses it stayed hard so i know it wernt anything dodgy like the M/C. so i relase the o/s/f mole grips and with the engine still running i press on the brakes and the pedal is soft again! so what does that mean matey? does that mean the problem is on that o/s/f?
cheers
alex.
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2004 6:00 am

yep adjust the cable more mate. Some muppet was there before you and done that.

It means you still have air trapped int he system bud. When you fitted the calipers did you fit them with the bleed nipples open? If not then the air would have been trapped when you fitted the calipers and it woudl have backed up quite a bit.

As for the other side, swap the pads round and make sure the sliders are free.
alex
Level 4 User

Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97

Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2004 6:07 am

no i fitted em with the nipples open, but i was doing the mole grips on the flexi hoses trick on the flexi's so i woulndt lose and fluid, ill try bleeding it again then but, what do recon about fitting the flexi hoses? the ones on at the mo are fine, mot passable and look a1 con
sliders? are they the rod things with the seals on that the the 17mm spanner goes on when your undoing the 13mm blots on the rear?
cheers for the info once again bud
alex.
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2004 6:17 am

if the flexis are not old then they might be fine but if they are old then you may be as well replacign them.

slider are the 17mm bit that slides in and out, if they are seized or sticky then the brakes don't work right.
alex
Level 4 User

Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97

Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2004 7:15 am

right ill take a closer look at the flexi hoses when im removing the n/s/f caliper. proberbly will changer em ive bought em now ne way!!!
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2004 7:19 am

might as well mate, brakes are important

Also do you have the calipers fitted on the right side mate?
alex
Level 4 User

Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97

Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2004 10:02 am

ok, finnaly ajusted the drums corectly, them auto ajusters were fecked, had to paly about with em to get them just rite then ajust the hand brake to pull up correctly at 4clicks now they had been set.
it pulls handbrake turns in the dry with 15's on with new toyo proxes on now thats a good hand brake!!
stil gotta mess around with the front flexis hopefully that will cure it.
cheers
alex
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