PROJECT E

Spammer Joined: 27 Jul 2004 Posts: 5717

i know what you mean i got a wire brush on a round metal plate with a connector to the drill .that will do the job nicely .
so all those springs and ,washers etc ,could i buy them from a motor factors or ford dealer if i wanted to make a reconditioned head ?
how much would one of those springs cost roughly ?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

yeah you can get them new.

If your gonna sell it on then it will need a new cam. piper etc sell cams cheap and you get new seals, cam, lube, valve springs and the tappets.

Spammer Joined: 27 Jul 2004 Posts: 5717

not that i would do it with this head but its good to know .
is it usually the cylinder head part of the engines that go wrong ,what about the bottom end ???
how hard is this whole job comparing an F7P engine ?
how does it work when you are putting all the springs ,valves etc back in after cleaning ?? do you need a torque wrench and other specialist tools ??

just asking these as i might consider buying a valver with some engine problems someday.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

bottom end goes wrong more than the top end.

different heads but both fundamentally the same, 8 more valves and you will need a deep tool

not really, torque wrench is though.

Site Subscriber Joined: 13 Oct 2004 Posts: 4722

the odd collet might ping out and fly across the room...

happend to me before, never did find it Sad

but then it wernt in rite to start off with.

Forum Moderator Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 7432

schakal wrote:

just asking these as i might consider buying a valver with some engine problems someday.

just get one with no engine probs, its only a matter of time before it develops some Rolling Eyes

Spammer Joined: 27 Jul 2004 Posts: 5717

point taken. you are talking of experience at the end of the day clark

Forum Moderator Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 7432

sadly yes i am Evil or Very Mad

Spammer Joined: 27 Jul 2004 Posts: 5717

i had 2 nice days off and no,i have not been a lazy bastard . the project is still going on.i took my hand drill and stuck the wire brush head on it . started spinning the bugger on the cylinder head block (bottom side) . before doing that i spreaded some engine oil on top with a paint brush .i have been into the valve holes and the surface of the block . it amazingly comes out to life ,shiny alloy comes up nicely.unfortunately did not have the time to take pics but will do that tomorrow and post them asap.

Spammer Joined: 27 Jul 2004 Posts: 5717

SOMEBODY HAS BEEN WORKING TODAY

and look what i found

cleaned the edges nicely

look at that

still cant figure out how to take the cam out . it doesnot rotate at all either.shall i bash it with hammer ?

cleaned a few of the valves as well. i am now wondering if it would be possible to turn the cam shaft by hand and see the valves going up and down after i finish the job and put all bits together again or am i just dreaming ???

Mr Quoter-vator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 7405

yes its possible...bit stiff tho

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

the cams siezed, keep dribblign oil into the head/Lever out the seal as well. 4th pic down the orange thing around the cam, thats the seal, lever it out.

Mr Quoter-vator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 7405

and when i said stiff i meant with the valves/springs in

Spammer Joined: 27 Jul 2004 Posts: 5717

i took the lever out and put shit loads of wd40 into the hole it left.will wait till tomorrow and have another go.

Spammer Joined: 27 Jul 2004 Posts: 5717

managed to get the hydrolic lifters out yesterday ,well at least 3 of them indeed. as chris h allready mentioned ,the metal cover bits on top of them were mushroomed but they easily came out after working on them with a flat headed screw driver once they are off ,the lifter comes out easy .and i can now see the camshaft from the holes ,it looks well corroded.i applied more wd40 through the 3 hyrolic lifter holes and hopefully ,i will be able to move the cam soon.
pictures tomorrow ,thanks for all the help

Mr Quoter-vator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 7405

good stuff, keep at it...its obviously just rusted to feck.

Gay Rights Activist Joined: 07 Apr 2004 Posts: 1268

remove the cam retainer (you might have done already, but its still on those pics). the cam only goes in from the pulley end (iirc on a CVH!!), so you want to hit it from the dizzy end....fairly hard if its stiff!!

Spammer Joined: 27 Jul 2004 Posts: 5717

stan wrote:

remove the cam retainer (you might have done already, but its still on those pics). the cam only goes in from the pulley end (iirc on a CVH!!), so you want to hit it from the dizzy end....fairly hard if its stiff!!

those pictures are quite old now
here is what it looks like at the moment

two of those hydrolic lifters are resisting with their almighty power,i broke the sides of one trying to prise out with screw driver. still no luck with the cam ,it will not move .

any ideas on removing the remaining 2 lifters?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

get the cam out then hit them through into the cam valley. Iy you lever them out chances are you'll destroy the lifter bore makign the head scrap.

You still have the cam retaining plate in those pics.

Spammer Joined: 27 Jul 2004 Posts: 5717

cam retaining plate ?? the one on the left 1st pic is it???? how does it come of ?any bolts etc?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

you have taken the bolts out already. Lift it up and out. Might need a bit of help hith a screwdriver.