Cam Belt white lines & am i going seriously mad!!!

Level 6 User Joined: 04 Nov 2004 Posts: 134

This might sound wierd but please could you read this carefully and tell me if you get it, and if it is right or not?

After rebuilding the head to perfection everything lined up, and not only this but the pulley's have a wooddrift type connection so they can only go on one way bla bla bla,

i checked the the pistons with the head off that piston No1 was TDC, at the same time that the flywheel mark was in the window approx middle, the crankshaft notch was pointing down,

With the camshafts aligned placed the head on gasket etc, torqueing procedure etc, everything still aligned

The cam shafts pulleys notches are lined up to the valve cover perfectly, the notch on the bottom of the crankshaft is pointing down and the flywheel mark is in the window in the middle, all TDC.

new upper tensioner and lower idler fitted, placed the new cam belt on obviously placing the white mark on the belt for the notch on the crankshaft pulley, then took it up to the cams which lined up perfectly as far as the white lines on the belt lining up with the notches on the cam pulleys and obviously the notches still all aligned with the cover, then tightened the belt up, turned the engine twice everything cool, no resistance, cam lobes in exactly the right position as they were before and after rebuild, and in time with the pistons (looking through spark plug holes),

Then after putting some bits on tightning stuff up no real change after from a few engine turns manually, i noticed that the white lines on the cam belt were no longer appearing when the notches were aligned with the cam belt cover and crankshaft notch.

is this normal, for the belt to have these lines for the initial setup and fit, BUT do not stay in line after the engine turns alot.(Just the belt white lines)

The engine lining up is still true although the white lines are not....AM I GOING MAD OR IS THIS NORMAL?

Regards

-=Kev=-

Site Subscriber Joined: 10 Jun 2004 Posts: 2317

This is normal, from what I gather, it happened to me when I did my cambelt change. As long as all the pulleys line up with the marks on the engine and it turns over freely by hand, you should be fine.

Forum Moderator Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 7432

of course they wont stay lined up!

Just sling it all back together, youre good to go! Smile

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

lol this is an unbeliveably common mistake.

The pulleys rotate at different speeds (cams at half engine speed) the pulleys also are not exactly half a belt away from each other if you get me so the lines only lien up once then the marks on the belt are out.

Level 6 User Joined: 04 Nov 2004 Posts: 134

ta Chris, i was thinking it was down to that type of equation, one other thing how many people use the locking crank through the hole with a bar procedure as currently i have not used this, but instead made sure of where i am by looking at the TDC piston No.1 up with the head off so i know for myself where things are.

with everything lined up, the line on the flywheel is at 0 degrees on the bell housing, but taking the cap off for the bar locking thing i'm not sure the hole is exactly in line, how exact do i need to be on this locking the crank up and if i should use this method , what diameter bar should i use, as renault only give them to workshop, or what have people found that fits??

-=KEv=-

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

well I have never used the locking the crank method yet, extra hassle you don't need.

As long as the marks mate up on the engine and belt its good enough.

Mr Quoter-vator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 7405

i think it was 8mm bar...may have been 6mm...but its not necessary. as long as those white lines line up on the cast notches on each pulley its ok. put them roughly in the right position as you have done.

i use a screwdriver in the hole on the bell housing to lock up the flywheel when you ened to put pressure on the crank to do the crank bolt up.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

instead of risking snapping ring gear I simply put it in 4th gear and put the car back on the ground.

Level 6 User Joined: 04 Nov 2004 Posts: 134

just to check does the notch on the crank have to pointing STRAIGHT DOWN as there are no other marking on the plastic covers, and obviously in turn the cam pulleys pointing straight up at the same time??

cause i think the notch on the crank pulley is only just off to the right from straight down.

-=Kev=-

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

yes thats right.

The engine is inclined back slightly, so if you got it out and stood it perfctly vertically then it would point straight down if you get my meaning.

Theres a squarish lump on the cambelt rear cover, the notch should be close to the front edge of that lump, i.e. to the front of the car.

Mr Quoter-vator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 7405

how do u put the car on the ground when u need access to the crank?

Level 6 User Joined: 04 Nov 2004 Posts: 134

I guess thinking about it, if the white line is exactly on the crank notch and after bringing the belt up to the right hand cam pulley and that white line fits over the pulley notch they are exactly right anyway??

Would this be right to say?

-=Kev=-

Forum Moderator Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 7432

thats correctamundo... come on get it together and rag it!

Level 6 User Joined: 04 Nov 2004 Posts: 134

he he

Mr Quoter-vator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 7405

yeah to get it right all you need to do is put the white lines on the little notches on the wheels.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

JB, easy theres plenty of room in there to do stuff at the crank when its on the ground.

I normally do it when the wheels in the air but a few times the muppet on the brake didn;t push hard anough and the cars fallen off the jack etc.