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alex
Level 4 User
Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 3:57 am |
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on the mot the clio fail on front nearside bearing, so insted of buying a neaw bearing and getting it pressed in i used the hub of the 19 16v hatch i had left over, knowing that the one i was swaping also had a newish bearing in place as i changed it the year before for that cars MOT.
anyway, back to the point,
the wheel it self looks proper dogy ie the clearace between the sill on that side of the car is 30mm but the clarance on the top of the offside front wheel is 10mm these measurements are guessing but i can get allot more fingers beteen the sill on one side than i can on the other.
the actual wheel looks like is on an angle!
also the steering wheel sitts miles off straight (like it used to anyway)
aslo the car really pulls to middle of the road, ie if i left it it would proberbly go round in circles!!!
so im guessing the tracking needs to be re-set at kwik fit or simmal?
any info needed and needed quick as im going to work in this car tommorw and i can do any work on it today but not tonite!!!
cheers
alex. |
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alex
Level 4 User
Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 3:58 am |
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is this *toe in* or *toe out* somthing like that? |
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Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 4:01 am |
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erm its hard to understand what your saying matey.
Clearence beween the sill then you mention the other side but on top of the tye?
What way is the wheel leaning? |
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alex
Level 4 User
Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 4:35 am |
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the tyre is leaning in so the gap on the offside (the one i havernt touched looks square to the car ie no leaning back at all)
but eh gap on the side where ive swapped the hub the nearside the wheel looks to be leaning back so the gap at the top of the tyre to the top of the wing (the sill of the wing) is allot more than the offside where i havernt toched owt.
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the wheel looks like this form the front and the back! |
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Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 4:49 am |
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thats negative camber my good man, the top of the wheel leaning in.
The toe angle is how the wheels point, i.e straight ahead or steered away (toe out)/towards each other (toe in).
Was it fine before you swapped the hub carrier?
if so then I would say the carriers the wrong one but they are the same unless you have the differently spaced strut holes, but then you would have struggled with the bolts. |
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alex
Level 4 User
Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 5:02 am |
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yeah i strugled withthe fecking bolts!! i just drilled the holes slightly bigger!!!!
shit! now ive gotta take all that shit off again! and then stick the bearing in the clio's hub?? will it fit?
then ball acke is tightening the hub nut ill have to roughtly do it till tomorow and then use my works torque wrench! thats if i can get the old bearing out and the new one in today! shit!
better get started!!!
cheers
alex. |
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Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 5:15 am |
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lol yep thats your problem matey.
Need a new bearing.
When you remove the hub the bearing is destroyed.
Measure the clio carriers bearing then get a new one, should pay under 20 quid for it. 2 sizes so get the right size, which means you need to measure it.
Torque wrench, think I used a torque wrench once to tighten a hub nut, I just do it by feel.
Basically smack the hub out with a large socket, may not shift, A14LNC's gtt hub didn't shift so I had to get the garage to press it out, then get the grinder on it to remove the old bearings inner race.
Then you need to take the hub to get the old bearing pressed out of the carrier then the new one pressed in then press the hub flange into the new bearing.
Makre sure you refit the wire circlip or if the bearing comes with a new one stick that in. if you re-use the old one clean it up with a wire brush and clean out the circlip groove with a screwdriver. |
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alex
Level 4 User
Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 5:23 am |
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the carrier off the 19 16v has been on for a week now, but since i have lowewrd the cat yesterday the wheel looks miles out, and pulls allot to the right, im gonna have to collect a bearing tomorow and use work press to stick it back in, should be fgine driving to work and home right?
cheers
alex. |
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alex
Level 4 User
Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 5:25 am |
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lowerd the car is what thats ment to say, dam im gonna learn how to type one of these years! |
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mals
Self Proclaimed Comic Genius
Joined: 04 Jul 2004
Posts: 3482
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 5:26 am |
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Was going to say how do you lower a cat |
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Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 5:29 am |
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lower a cat by sitting on it. i try and sit on my cats cos they are wee bastards.
It will be worse now its lowered due to the wishbone sitting higher and now its about parallel so the wishbone is at full length outwards if you get me. Wishbone swings in an arc.
Anyway it will be ok to drive but the tyre on that side will be scrubbing quite quick so I wouldn't do a lot of miles cos it'll eat through the inner edge of the tyre. |
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A14LN C
Site Subscriber
Joined: 15 Oct 2004
Posts: 1139
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 7:43 am |
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| Chris H wrote: |
| i try and sit on my cats cos they are wee bastards. |
PMSL!  |
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alex
Level 4 User
Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 9:51 am |
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the tyre on that side a shitter anyway!
one other question while im here, ive lowerd it and put the 19 16v's alloy wheels on it, and on the front ive put the the larger 19 16v's girlings font brakes and dics's,
but the brakeing aint allot better, on that same n/s/f the caliper is crap and ive bleed the whole system twice!
first time the fuild wasnt going out of the nipple only running out of the theads down the side of the claiper, so i swaped the nipple and its ok, but i wouldnt say its any better braking than having the bendix's on it! any advice?
i have a spare caliper i could stick on whiel im changing the hub tomorow think ill stick it on and see ho it goes.
one more smallish thing i your guide to bleeding the brakes you have to do do the r/h rear, l/h front, l/h rear, r/h front, what differance does doing it this way achive?
cheers
alex |
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Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 9:57 am |
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the method described bleeds 1 circuit at a time. Its diagonally split system.
Are the rubber hoses the originals? If so they should be changed really. They can collapse internally.
Are the calipers siezed? Do the pistons move easily? |
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alex
Level 4 User
Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 10:36 am |
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yeah the piston moves and the calipers worked 100% on the chamade a couple of days ago!
i can't tell if they are the original ones, ive just had a look and they are a gray black coulour with painted yellowy lines on!
i might change the flexi hoses but they look in good nick from the outside,
also am i right in thinking that the braking would be allot better with these disc's and girlings, i thought there would be a huge difference in performace, but there aint so far!! |
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Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 11:30 am |
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it should no be on par with the 19's.
Unless the rear brakes are fecked. |
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alex
Level 4 User
Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97
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Sun Dec 12, 2004 1:07 pm |
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yeah i thought it would be at least as good as the chammy's if not slightly better due to a less heavy car (only slightly i know)
but the rears are fine, i think im gonna stick on of the hatches calipers on when i change the hub 2mora nite, if that dont work then ill get some new hoses,
oh and you were right about the front knoi's of my hatch not fitting the clio, they have the same amount of therded section at the top of the shocker ram but the RT shocker has amachined section aswell so the top mount sits futher down the ram the 19 16v dont.
cheers once again
alex. |
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Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
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Mon Dec 13, 2004 2:13 am |
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nay bother, just let us know if you need any other nudges in the right direction. |
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alex
Level 4 User
Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97
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Mon Dec 13, 2004 1:33 pm |
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the hubs on now drives perfect and the steering wheel has centred up also, the brakes are still dodgy so i stuck the hatches girling caliper on the n/s/f, but still no change the pedal goes all the way to the floor and then the car stops, the first 3" of travel on the pedal it does just about feck all!! and when hard braking without my hands on the wheel it pulls to the right slightly, what the hell is the fecking problem!!!
ive looked in haynes it say's that its could be;
a faulty master clyinder
air in the system
faulty vacume servo unit
the brakes were fine before but i have bleeded them about 10times each on the front and about twice for the whole system, gonna get some flexi hoses tomorow and fit em (thats if i can get the right spanner what siz3e is it 11mm????)
then bleed the whole system again!
its taking the piss now!!
cheers
alex. |
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Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
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Mon Dec 13, 2004 1:35 pm |
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yes its 11mm. Get a proper brake pipe spanner.
Have you had the rear drums off?
if not take them off you will prob find leaky cylinders, replace em and adjust the brakes properly.
The bleed the whole system. |
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alex
Level 4 User
Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Posts: 97
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Mon Dec 13, 2004 1:43 pm |
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ive never touched drum brakes they scare me!!!!
ill take a look in hayes, any tips bud??
cheers |
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