Downpipe bolts (Again)

Site Subscriber Joined: 10 Jun 2004 Posts: 2317

Managed to get the passenger side bolt off, but the drivers side is stuck solid, whats the best was to go about getting it off?

Cheers

Mr Quoter-vator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 7405

may have to end up hacksawing thru the bolt.....altho u cant fit a hacksaw in there so it will be a most annoying job with a hacksaw blade....

Site Subscriber Joined: 10 Jun 2004 Posts: 2317

Gah, tried hacksawing with the cat....not somthing i want to do again. Shame i cant fit a grinder in there

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

use a 6 sided deep socket and lots of extensions from underneath.

Try doing it when the cars still hot.

Forum Moderator Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 7432

now i'm in the same situation Crying or Very sad

Engine in the scrapper is ready to lift apart from this one poxy nut.

drivers side nut is rounded off, ill go and get some fresh junior hacksaw blades tomorrow and get ready for some fun.

As an aside, i noticed that the rear mount to gearbox bracket is only held onto the gearbox by 1 bolt... other is missing, nice.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

if you are removing the engine the downpipe can stay on

Forum Moderator Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 7432

can it?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

no I am lying in order to bring false hope to you.

If Richard can remove a 16V with the downpipe still on it any muppet can. I had to do it on Bens S's 16V and also I had the joy of Gentle Bens energy lump which has a very long downpipe, its the same length as the 16V downpipe witht he cat attached. Now thats fiddly to get out

Forum Moderator Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 7432

alright alright pop a chill pill.

normally on here a quick statement of ease is followed up several posts later by a number of caveats involving other things which need to be done.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

go pump out the petrol, I want a 10% share since I told you how to do it.

Its the relat with the red main wire, the black relay, white uns for starting etc the other with the brown main cables is for the ECU

Forum Moderator Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 7432

ill do it tomorrow, car doesnt have a battery in it at the moment.

and anyway, i dont even know if there is any petrol in it, if not, youre welcome to your 10% Smile

Site Subscriber Joined: 10 Jun 2004 Posts: 2317

Now, about refitting...haynes reckons I need a new sealing ring...can I just get away with using exhaust paste?

Level 5 User Joined: 28 Dec 2004 Posts: 110

i used the same ring plus paste and have done so a number of times, no problems.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

don't use paste as it caused it to break up.

Only time I have had to get a new ring is when paste was used.

Site Subscriber Joined: 10 Jun 2004 Posts: 2317

So just use the existing ring without paste? wont it start blowing?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

ok lets take this slowly.

The conical ring is made from compressed wire formed into shape.

Its there to allow movement to prevent the exhaust cracking when the engine moves.

Its wire because its relatively tough, and its also a nice slippy surface to allow movement and its also good at sealing.

Theres a spring loaded clamp to hold the downpiep thus ring to the manifold, they are there to allwo movement but retain tension to seal.

You slap paste on there, it not only fucks up the cat when bits break off but it prevents the ring doing its job which is acting like a bearing

it makes it solid. Now when things are solid when they are not meant to be the result is always the same. Something breaks. The ring will break up and end up causing a blow but it will also kill the cat.

Site Subscriber Joined: 10 Jun 2004 Posts: 2317

Fair enuff Very Happy