Lambda Sensor

Site Subscriber Joined: 29 Jan 2005 Posts: 1108

Is the lambda sensor also called the lambda 'probe'? I'm assuming it is, but I just can't understand why the same item would be Â£45 at one place, and Â£112 at another!? That's one hell of a price difference for the same thing!

BB Performance Tuning have got one for Â£112, which seems stupid;
http://www.bbperformancetuning.co.uk/products/product.asp?id=3058

And then GSF have got it for Â£45, which seems a lot more reasonable!
R93000 LAMBDA PROBE RENAULT ALL EXC ESPACE V6 45.00

Not sure if the GSF one is the right one tho, but it's the only one that comes up when you search for 'lambda' in Renault 19, so it's gotta be surely?

Site Subscriber Joined: 13 Oct 2004 Posts: 4722

prolly paying more cos bb performace one looks more fancy.

Site Subscriber Joined: 10 Jun 2004 Posts: 2317

Aren't BB more expensive with everything though?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

BB like any tuning company buy the normal part and then add 25% on to everything.

Level 6 User Joined: 18 May 2005 Posts: 162

I have a 2nd hand one for Â£15 you can have if you want, from a mk1 Clio

Site Subscriber Joined: 29 Jan 2005 Posts: 1108

Cheers for the offer buddy, I'll know whether or not I'll need one when I get my new idle control valve in the post. If that solves the idling problem then I'm sorted, but if it doesn't then I might have to try ur lambda sensor! Wink

Site Subscriber Joined: 23 Jan 2005 Posts: 502

Try this company

http://www.ntklambdasensors.co.uk/main/mindex.htm

Â£56 NTK

Site Subscriber Joined: 29 Jan 2005 Posts: 1108

Well I've changed my coolant temp sensor & idle control valve, and it still idles like a bag of shite. Doh

I would've thought the lamba sensor might be my next port of call? But I've been told the car would also be running like a bag of shit if the lambda was buggered? But it runs fine, just is incapable of idling Confused

Site Subscriber Joined: 28 Jan 2005 Posts: 3547

when my lambda was shot, it idled iratically, it would go from 900 to 1500, back to 900, then upto 1500 constantly.

Site Subscriber Joined: 29 Jan 2005 Posts: 1108

But did the car run shit? My mate was saying that if my lambda was gone, I'd be using lots of fuel and not have much power?

Mine never goes above 1,000rpm. It idles okayish at about 900, then has like a few 'stutters' & you can feel the car shake a bit like, and then it starts having trouble, then drops to about 400 - 500 and 'chugs' for a while, and then eventually climbs back up to 900ish, and then same happens again..........etc..........etc.......... Rolling Eyes

Site Subscriber Joined: 28 Jan 2005 Posts: 3547

well it ran really quite well actually, but the bottom end was shot so it did less than 10 miles.

Site Subscriber Joined: 23 Jan 2005 Posts: 502

The problem is that if the ECU gets a fault it goes into a very basic - Limp Home Mode - (LHM)

Basicly high idle.

When you stop the engine it resets.

If you find a Renault garage with the old X25 diagnostic case, you can take the car out on the road with the thing connected and it will find the fault.

Only problem with this is Renault lost - broke or whatever to many X25 s.

So they bolted the thing to a sort of wheely bin.

So the choice is Renault diagnostics or keep changing bits and hope for the best.

Site Subscriber Joined: 15 Oct 2004 Posts: 1139

glad 2 c i aint the only person with dodgy idiling at the mo i'll hopfully get it sorted 2moro

chris recons it's the idle control valve too so he's gona try cleaning it up and c how it goes.

*fingers crossed* Rolling Eyes

Site Subscriber Joined: 29 Jan 2005 Posts: 1108

My local Renault dealer has got an X25, they used it to find my throttle position sensor fault. I might take it to them and ask 'em to do a diagnostic and see what it comes up with.

My mate now reckons that I might have a dodgy connection going to my idle control valve, so no matter if I connect a good one or a knackered one, there'll be no difference. Would something like that show up on a diagnostic check though? Cuz the idle control valve isn't really a sensor that gives back a reading is it. Or is it? I dunno!

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

does the car cut out when you turn the rear window and heater and headlight son full whack? does the idle change to compensate?

Does it cut out when you blip thew throttle?

if not then you have ICV activation. Which is also backed up by the fact the revs drop[ then climb back up liek you said earlier. It should hiss a lot more when the revs rop right down.

look for air leaks. Lambda sensor won't cause it to drop that low unless its internally shorting whicht hey can do, unplug it and see what happens. you just need to reach under behind the drivers wheel and you'll feel the plug just behind the anti roll bar

Site Subscriber Joined: 29 Jan 2005 Posts: 1108

The car doesn't cut out with everything switched on like that no. I have a very noisy fuel pump and I can hear the noise of that changing as I switch things on & off in the car y'know. So it does compensate for that.

Thinking about it I might have an air leak cuz I've got a whistling noise at a certain point during acceleration which sounds like an air escaping kinda noise. Never really thought anything of it though.

Any tips & tricks on how to find air leaks? Other than driving the car into a swimming pool and then seeing where the bubbles in the water appear Laughing

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

spray wd-40 around the injectors, if theres a change in noise then theres your problem. spray at the joint to the ICV pipe on the manifold and agin on the TB - manifold join.

Site Subscriber Joined: 29 Jan 2005 Posts: 1108

Just tried the WD-40 thing and there was no change in noise at all. So looks like no air leaks in those places

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

well those are the only places that it will really get affected unless its the underside which isn't that common.

its hard to tell without seeing it and your descriptions.