turbo converting

Site Subscriber Joined: 28 Jan 2005 Posts: 3547

right, im slowly gathering parts, ideally, should i go for a shorter throw crank, or dished pistons?

and what engine can i get them out of?

what will happen with the map sensor as its not going to work with boost isit?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

neither, retain the stock CR.

also a shorter throw crank will reduce the capacity.

get another map sensor, a 2 BAR sensor will be fine for you. VX LET engines, 21 turbos and so on use the 2 bar sensor, cossies use 3 bar sensors.

Site Subscriber Joined: 28 Jan 2005 Posts: 3547

Thanks, so what would you say would be the maximum amount of boost it could run using stock items?

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

static CR's and boost figures frankly mean feck all.

I have built turbo cvh's and YB's with static crs of over 12:1 and was told they would go bang etc, but they still run today fine after many thousands of miles. On normal unleaded I may add.

An engine doesn't know what boost is nor what static compresion ratios are.

You could have a stock engine running 15PSI, But I could swing the cam timing so theres little/no overlap and the boost would rocket (fuel consumption would go down and power would go up though).

Boost is restriction, not flow. 100PSi boost will not automatically give more power than the same engine done properly with 3psi boost.

Also its best to look at it from an output point of view.

You can get 200bhp comfortably from a 1.8 using stock clobber, the same figure from a turbos not an issue, as turbos don't need revs to do the same thing.

Site Subscriber Joined: 28 Jan 2005 Posts: 3547

would you say this is a bodge?

http://www.miniportal.ru/renault/tuning/f7p7-3.html

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

yes would you not!?!

starter would last maybe a few months! No room for the heatsiled and the turbo is right on the turbo retur oil feed.

The adaptor for the oil feed is way to long as well, that will fracture off.

Site Subscriber Joined: 28 Jan 2005 Posts: 3547

good, atleats it wasnt just me thinking that, i saw that and it looked shit, i didnt like the idea of that adapter, and ive also noticed that the oil feed goes right above the exhaust manifold, and in a real car where vibrations and bumps occur, that will hit and cause a under bonnet fire...it also wouldnt do much good for the oil temp either.

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

oil feeds coming from the easiest place tbh and many cars have the feed running a biut close, but its not ideal as you say, but itbh its the most realistic way.

Retroholic Joined: 12 Feb 2004 Posts: 5685

danlp6 wrote:

would you say this is a bodge?

http://www.miniportal.ru/renault/tuning/f7p7-3.html

That very engine ran perfect for years like that, the only reason it was removed was to fit lower CR pistons

Forum Moderator Joined: 02 Mar 2004 Posts: 19978

it ran but perfects pushing it!

You can either bodge it like 99% of them are or you can do it properly at the end of the day.

Site Subscriber Joined: 28 Jan 2005 Posts: 3547

im not liking the bodge idea. i want it to look nice and semi professional!

Mr Quoter-vator Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 7405

but can dannyboy afford to do it properly is the question? properly is usually the most expensive way...most DIYers have to bodge it.

make a nice manifold tho...dont buy a log lookalike thingy.... Very Happy

Site Subscriber Joined: 28 Jan 2005 Posts: 3547

my university project is my tubular manifold, and downpipe! so thats not going to be bodged!

Forum Moderator Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 7432

how have you already got a university project, having only started your first year a week or 2 ago?

Anyway I thought you had to leave uni for lack of funds?

Site Subscriber Joined: 28 Jan 2005 Posts: 3547

im on official leave, so im geting e-mails of the lectures, we've been asked to plan what we are going to do for our projects to see if we have any ideas.