66,000 Problems?

Level 5 User Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 119

I'm looking at a 1995 r19 16vavler with 66,000 miles. Seems good cond., just wondered if theres anything mechanical I should be cautious about and expect to replace within the next 10,000? I don't think its had a major replacements or repairs recently (with the exception of brakes).
e.g. will the clutch be on the out around 60,000?

Thanks for your help

Level 8 User Joined: 14 Apr 2004 Posts: 278

Check that the timing belt has been replaced. (@ 60K)

The clutch may last longer than that, it depends on how it has been driven.

The mileage is quite low for the year so it is probably in good enough condition.

Check the gearbox doesn't grind (change down) or whine and that the wheel bearings don't hum when you drive along.

Check for rust, I'm not sure where, maybe someone else can advise?

Service history?

Other than that just bring a mechanic or similar along with you.

Level 5 User Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 119

Thanks for quick reply, very helpful.
Anyone else??

Site Subscriber Joined: 18 Jun 2004 Posts: 470

check for rust under the sideskirts, always find rust there

also check that the PAS rack has no leaks

good luck Wink

Level 9 User Joined: 07 Dec 2005 Posts: 373

most valvers have had the head gasket changed around that mileage due to changing coolent neglect.so check the oil and water for mayo.also check the bottom of the driver's and and other door for rust,prone to it and also back and front arches for rust.also like my old 1 same year,ive heard of 1 injector fooking up,so listen for a high ticking noise when its warmed up

Level 5 User Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 119

Thank you for all your help guys, much appreciated.
The guy mentioned a bit of rust on the drivers door (about an inch circular) and one near light cluster (same size). Anything to worry about? I presume as long as it hasn't rusted through it should be ok... Easy to repair/stop?
Cheers again.

Level 9 User Joined: 07 Dec 2005 Posts: 373

door is easy to get fixed if it aint to bad,to be honest phase 2's are famous for rust.very front of bonnet,all arches,bottom of door's and the metal strip when you open the boot that goes between the two back lights

Site Subscriber Joined: 05 Apr 2004 Posts: 1141

Is this the green on on ebay?

How much does he want for it?

Level 5 User Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 119

Aye, yeah thats the one.
He's asking Â£900 ono, w/out tax

Retroholic Joined: 23 Dec 2005 Posts: 3315

i'de buy it if the millage is genuine... if u get it make it mint and keep it mint it will be well worth it, will be a nice n tight ride

Site Subscriber Joined: 05 Apr 2004 Posts: 1141

For Â£900 I'd want FSH, recent Cambelt and Tensioner and the coolant to be blue, not brown.

Level 5 User Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 119

Well i bought it, Â£650.
FSH except for the last 12,000 (i.e. has official stamps up until 56,000).
It'll be requiring a new cam belt at 72,000 and i'll prob get the gearbox serviced while its out (so about Â£550).
The only thing its missed (according to the little book) is an air/oil filter change. So might have to look into that.

Theres a few other minor faults (some covered above, some not).
Also I was wondering, is the little oil gauge in the middle (ph2 16v exec, without trip computer) oil level or temperature. Its strange coz the reading seems to go up and down in line with the rpm (alternator elec fault?)

Theres a few other thing but i'll ask about them later. Thanks again

Level 9 User Joined: 07 Dec 2005 Posts: 373

when you turn the keys but dont start it just so all the lights are on,on the dash,thats your oil level.once the car has started thats your oil pressure gauge.its normal for the gauge to go up and down while your driving

Level 5 User Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 119

Oh ok.
Its just the oil gauge seems to be pretty high, around 3000rpm and its nearly maxxed out (only between a 1/16th - 1/32nd left on the dial).
The coolant dial is only about 1/4 full and never really moves no matter, do these symptoms sound like low coolant? Or something more serious? Surely on a cold, rainy winter night, not ragging it in any way (not ever above 3500 rpm-4000rpm) it would be pretty unusual (and dangerous!) for the oil pressure to be damn near off the gauge!

Site Subscriber Joined: 28 Jan 2005 Posts: 3547

once its warmed up it should start to fall. but at 3000rpm oil pressure is about 3bar.

Retroholic Joined: 23 Dec 2005 Posts: 3315

oil pressure is good if it at the top/ nearly off the scale, start worrying when it doesnt move at all

Site Subscriber Joined: 11 Feb 2005 Posts: 2929

TBH most of them don't work as they should anyway. Mine sits in the middle of the gauge all the time. When I accelerate if falls to almost nothing.

As long as you check your oil levels on the dipstick you'll be fine. Wink

Level 9 User Joined: 07 Dec 2005 Posts: 373

and although the little gauge tells you how much oil is intit i wouldnt rely on it,cause these go through a lot of oil

Level 5 User Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 119

I remember reading something about Halfords oil being ok right?
Is there any particular brand/type that anyone recommends? I don't mind spending a few extra quid to have better quality and longer part life.

The other concerns are;
-Water in the right reverse light (!?! How it got there... like a little fish tank swishing around)
-The heater matrix not pumping out much hot air (shall flush it out this weekend... whats the situation with antifreeze? should it have antifreeze in already, if so, do I need to flush it, use rust remover stuff and then refill with water and antifreeze?)
-My friend (who has owned a same-engined-clio valver for over a year now) thinks the rear engine mount may be going. Apparently it kinda knocks back inbetween changing gears.
-Little bits of rust in the usual suspect place. Will sort out this weekend when I sort out heater.

Just another random question, what speed do you reach tops in fourth? And is that as a standard car?

Ta, Ben.

Level 5 User Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 119

Oh, and I havent been able to find a damn 1995 v16 manual anywhere?!
A couple of types of manual on ebay (one saying 'inc. chamade') but they only go up to 1994...

Forum Moderator Joined: 18 Feb 2004 Posts: 7432

same book, nothing changed at 95. Exactly the same from 92 to end of production.