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 idler change on 16v
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JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2004 5:17 am

need to change my Idler on the valver. the rear cambelt cover covers the bolts and mounting brkt to the idler so it can only be changed with the cover off...to remove the cover you need to remove the crank and aux sprockets!!! good thought there!!!

anyway...to avoid the hard work i was thinking of gettin in there with my dremel and angle grinding attackment and just cut a hole in the plastic around the idler allowing me to access the bolts and change it in the car.

any thought/objections or even better an easier way to do it?

Cheers

JB
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2004 9:07 am

undo the T30 screws leave the idler pulley on then lever the cover away fromt eh block, you can manage it then.

Also the crank pulley will just slide off the crank, its not a tight fit, the aux pulley is an arse, you can usually crack the bolt off if the cambelt is left on the car.
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2004 9:45 am

i thought the T30 screws were behind this cover too?
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2004 9:46 am

or do u mean the T30 screws hold the cover on?
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2004 9:58 am

the ones that hold the cover on then you can get the screws that hold the idler on when you lever the cover forward.
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2004 11:38 am

cool...i shall chk it out.

cheers
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 9:56 am

F***IN F***....WHY IS IT THAT ALL SIMPLE JOBS ARE F***ING F*** JOBS....

FINALLY GET TO THE IDLER AND THE ***KING CRAP CHEAP S*** B***ARD BOLTS HEADS ROUND OFF....F***!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

I HATE IT I F***ING HATE IT. SO NOW I HAVE AN ILDER ON THE POINT OF CEASING THAT I CANNOT GET OFF UNLESS I REMOVE THE F***ING ENGINE JUST TO DRILL STUPID F***ING BOLTS OFF........


Last edited by JB on Thu Oct 07, 2004 11:44 pm; edited 1 time in total
Stephen
Level 8 User

Joined: 14 Apr 2004
Posts: 278

Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 10:09 am

If you're really that annoyed, try drilling through the wheel liner... on second thoughts, could you get a small grinder or air powered (stone) grinder at it?

Easy on the swearing, I might be forced to contact a moderator... oh wait, you are one!
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 10:12 am

good idea...
thru the wheel liner!!!!

shall go look at it
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 10:40 am

nah no way..need long drills to do that....bollocks to it...im fed up now
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 11:46 pm

language altered...altho u get the gist of it.

well they are rusted good and proper....it looks like before i changed the head and gasket earlier this year, it had been a victim of that coolant leak down the back corner. dribbled all over it for god knows how many years so its rusted solid.

all i can think is that i lift or lower the engine enough to get a drill on it. any other suggestions? any offers?
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 2:39 am

get a grinder or stone in there, it can be done but not easy.

TBH if you have a hoist engine removal is pretty easy on these.
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 3:04 am

its a shame the new block isnt ready....cos i was hopin to last out til i did that...but the idler is really stiff to turn by hand...not running freely like a new one so i fear for its life.

may track someone down local with a hoist...is it possible to drop the engine like doin the clutch? altho it would have to be a lot...hoist better option...only needs to bne lifted about 12 inches.
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 3:11 am

new un's are stiff to turn. Old ones tend to spin really freely.

But yep they do seize.

You could try wd-40'ing it to free it up a ad so it'll last a wee while longer.

All you need to do is, dissconnect the downpipe, fuel lines, unlplug the loom in the aux fuse box, pop the shafts out of the box then humph it out.
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 3:16 am

aye....hopefully a friendly man local to me can help out....coughstancough Very Happy
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 3:24 am

well you can but ask
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 2:39 pm

can someone dig out the code for the 2 bolts that hold the idler on please....many thanks




grumble.....feckin thing.......grrr
Chris H
Forum Moderator

Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978

Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 2:42 pm

77 03 009 133 SCREW R19 .69
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 2:45 pm

thanks mate Smile
Addie
Site Subscriber

Joined: 05 Apr 2004
Posts: 1141

Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 3:01 pm

How close to a full car could you buy over the counter at the Renault Parts Desk?
JB
Mr Quoter-vator

Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405

Posted: Sat Oct 09, 2004 2:06 am

well u could prolly buy every component to build a new car....dunno about the main chassis tho.
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