| Author |
Message |
Ben P
Level 5 User
Joined: 04 May 2004
Posts: 107
|
| Posted:
Thu Jul 22, 2004 9:30 am |
|
What do you think of this? - Personally think the exhaust manifold looks a bit dodgy - Longer runners to ports 1 and 4.
The guy emailed me the spec which I will post when I can locate it.
Opinions?
 |
Last edited by Ben P on Thu Jul 22, 2004 9:33 am; edited 2 times in total |
|
|
|
Ben P
Level 5 User
Joined: 04 May 2004
Posts: 107
|
| Posted:
Thu Jul 22, 2004 9:32 am |
|
OK why that not work? I bet Chet has put something on to stop you posting pics from the CS uploader.
In my defence I had no webspace to use  |
|
|
|
|
Ben P
Level 5 User
Joined: 04 May 2004
Posts: 107
|
| Posted:
Thu Jul 22, 2004 9:39 am |
|
Here's the spec sheet: (Cut and pasted because I am lazy)
·BLOCK: Standard F7P engine bored out to 2.0 litre. Block skimmed 3mm to help lower engines compression to 8:1
·CRANKSHAFT: Renault 19 turbo diesel crank, hardened & balanced. Smaller balance weights than standard crankshaft (this will increase R.P.M)
·BEARINGS: Renault bearings fitted top and bottom.
·PISTONS: Renault 21 turbo pistons. 3mm skimmed off top 4mm skimmed of bottom to lower compression down to 8:1 from original 10.0:1.
·OIL PUMP: Reconditioned & uprated harder spring fitted 2mm spacer fitted to increase oil pressure.
·CLUTCH: AP Racing 4 paddle clutch.
·FLYWHEEL: Lightened & balanced.
·HEAD: Ported to stage 2 & polished
·VALVES: Harder springs fitted (for quicker throttle response) All 16 valves re set and lapped in.
·MANIFOLD: Specially made chrome manifold. Set at a 5 degreases angle for turbo specifications.
·TURBO: Specially built turbo by Turbo Dynamics.T25 turbo. They said to me this turbo will boost up to 28 psi.
·ACTUATOR: Uprated actuator to handle the 28-psi boost. Specially modified to fit the turbo.
·GASKETS: All the gaskets and oil seals are original Renault parts.
·PARTS: Everything is new original Renault parts.
·OTHER BITS: Turbo Intercooler, E.R.L. water spray kit, & Micro Dynamics Turbo Ignition Management unit. |
|
|
|
|
Ben P
Level 5 User
Joined: 04 May 2004
Posts: 107
|
| Posted:
Thu Jul 22, 2004 9:42 am |
|
|
|
|
Ben P
Level 5 User
Joined: 04 May 2004
Posts: 107
|
| Posted:
Thu Jul 22, 2004 9:44 am |
|
Ok for fuck's sake. I am useless with computers.
Can anybody see them? |
|
|
|
|
huwwatkins
Site Subscriber
Joined: 10 Jun 2004
Posts: 2317
|
| Posted:
Thu Jul 22, 2004 10:54 am |
|
Yes, but you need to copy/pase them in to a new IE window |
|
|
|
|
JB
Mr Quoter-vator
Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405
|
| Posted:
Thu Jul 22, 2004 2:11 pm |
|
ive seen this spec before....and everyone ive shown it too loves to highlight:-
·VALVES: Harder springs fitted (for quicker throttle response) All 16 valves re set and lapped in.
lol |
|
|
|
|
Chet T16
Retroholic
Joined: 12 Feb 2004
Posts: 5685
|
| Posted:
Thu Jul 22, 2004 3:52 pm |
|
Cliosport uploader doesn't allow hotlinking, out of my hands. Just click the link then refresh it.
You may think the manifold looks dodgy bit i could show you one that'd make you weak at the knees  |
|
|
|
|
Ben P
Level 5 User
Joined: 04 May 2004
Posts: 107
|
| Posted:
Fri Jul 23, 2004 3:14 am |
|
I've emailed the guy to ask about the fuelling setup.
What you running Chet? |
|
|
|
|
Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
|
| Posted:
Fri Jul 23, 2004 5:59 am |
|
I can't get the pics to work at all, no the shortcut trick, npot the refresh trick or anything.
Anyway whoever done it obviously has no clue at all about cars from that spec sheet.
EWvery single thin on the list is wrong or plain crap. |
|
|
|
|
Ben P
Level 5 User
Joined: 04 May 2004
Posts: 107
|
| Posted:
Fri Jul 23, 2004 6:18 am |
|
Chris, try cutting and pasting them but without the http:// at the beginning
erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/full/1090512105__ren3.jpg
erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/full/1090511960__ren2.jpg
erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/gallery/full/1090511930__ren.jpg |
|
|
|
|
Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
|
| Posted:
Fri Jul 23, 2004 6:40 am |
|
aye got them working now.
Sat around for a while by the looks of it.
What ever turbo hes using its crap, look tat the turbine exit, the worst setup you can get pretty much.
And yep the manifold is cack as well, it will work but you will get reversion into 2&3.
heres the specs with my comments.
·BLOCK: Standard F7P engine bored out to 2.0 litre. Block skimmed 3mm to help lower engines compression to 8:1
(does that make sense to anyone? will put the cam timing out a fair whack)
·CRANKSHAFT: Renault 19 turbo diesel crank, hardened & balanced. Smaller balance weights than standard crankshaft (this will increase R.P.M)
(very good, how is it hardened? Shot blasted lol or is it tuftrided?)
·BEARINGS: Renault bearings fitted top and bottom.
(wise choice but what top bearings?)
·PISTONS: Renault 21 turbo pistons. 3mm skimmed off top 4mm skimmed of bottom to lower compression down to 8:1 from original 10.0:1.
(skimming the bottom of the piston reduces the skirt thus weight but alsothe heat capacity of the piston, and yes the rings are the main heat escape route but it does get stored in the piston before ti can be shed, as for the CR, thats a contradiction to his earlier comment)
·OIL PUMP: Reconditioned & uprated harder spring fitted 2mm spacer fitted to increase oil pressure.
(increase in poil pressure is rarely wanted, what you want is more flow)
·CLUTCH: AP Racing 4 paddle clutch.
(thats indeed what it is on a rusty flywheel)
·FLYWHEEL: Lightened & balanced.
(to lazy to clean up the face?)
·HEAD: Ported to stage 2 & polished
(what the hell does that mean? I had a stage 3 piss this morning after a stage 4 drink of cola and a stage 3 polished roll and sausage)
·VALVES: Harder springs fitted (for quicker throttle response) All 16 valves re set and lapped in.
(thats just ridiculous its beyond comment! re-set to what?)
·MANIFOLD: Specially made chrome manifold. Set at a 5 degreases angle for turbo specifications.
(shame its so crap then isn't it, and its degrees and they are fine up to around 20 degrees for oil feed etc)
·TURBO: Specially built turbo by Turbo Dynamics.T25 turbo. They said to me this turbo will boost up to 28 psi.
(will boost to 50PSI if you want but whats use is that aside from cooking your dinner? And its a poor exit, even gtt's are better than that)
·ACTUATOR: Uprated actuator to handle the 28-psi boost. Specially modified to fit the turbo.
(what does that mean? is it fully open at 28PSI or what? What dos it need 28PSI for anyway)
·GASKETS: All the gaskets and oil seals are original Renault parts.
(good stuff, they are usually the best)
·PARTS: Everything is new original Renault parts.
(see above)
·OTHER BITS: Turbo Intercooler, E.R.L. water spray kit, & Micro Dynamics Turbo Ignition Management unit.
(bet the coolers a crap design, the water injection shouldn't be need until the powers upped a lot but then agains its a crap job so any bodge will be tried to sort it out I suppose) |
|
|
|
|
Neal
Forum Moderator
Joined: 18 Feb 2004
Posts: 7432
|
| Posted:
Fri Jul 23, 2004 6:46 am |
|
You going to buy it then Chris?  |
|
|
|
|
Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
|
| Posted:
Fri Jul 23, 2004 6:51 am |
|
make a nice paper weight I suppose |
|
|
|
|
stan
Gay Rights Activist
Joined: 07 Apr 2004
Posts: 1268
|
| Posted:
Fri Jul 23, 2004 8:49 am |
|
Chris--how will skimming the block affect cam timing?? i know the centre distance between the crank and the cam will be altered, but all u have to do is re-determine TDC, then re-time the cams... |
|
|
|
|
JB
Mr Quoter-vator
Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405
|
| Posted:
Fri Jul 23, 2004 9:32 am |
|
i wonder if it would actually fit in a 19 bay? looks a tight squeeze i reckon.
isnt cam timing just a result of number of teeth between the three sprockets? |
|
|
|
|
Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
|
| Posted:
Fri Jul 23, 2004 9:48 am |
|
Stan read the spec list, this boy has no clue so his timings gonna be way out about 5 teeth or something.
JB if you skim the head or the block the cam timings affected.
The cams are closer to the crank than they were before. the belt and the cogs have the same amount of teeth but the cogs are physically closer to each other thus if you time the belt in as stock the cams and crank ain't gonna line up.
Its hard to explain in laymans terms. |
|
|
|
|
stan
Gay Rights Activist
Joined: 07 Apr 2004
Posts: 1268
|
| Posted:
Fri Jul 23, 2004 9:54 am |
|
u dont need to use laymans terms, u r'nt talking to remedials.
wot (I mean what really) im saying is the reason ur thinking the timing will be affected is because the centre distance between the crank and the cam will be altered, as u said. BUT if u re-determine TDC, like i said, using a DTI and timing disc, u can re-time the cams with verniers....not difficult to grasp is it? |
|
|
|
|
Chris H
Forum Moderator
Joined: 02 Mar 2004
Posts: 19978
|
| Posted:
Fri Jul 23, 2004 9:59 am |
|
I was tryign to explain it so everyone understands.
No Stan its not and I have done it many times so you don't have to talk to me like I'm the muppet.
Im not the retard who made the engine and fitted stronger valve springs for better throttle response! |
|
|
|
|
stan
Gay Rights Activist
Joined: 07 Apr 2004
Posts: 1268
|
| Posted:
Fri Jul 23, 2004 10:13 am |
|
lol....his spec is bullshit, i know! |
|
|
|
|
JB
Mr Quoter-vator
Joined: 16 Feb 2004
Posts: 7405
|
| Posted:
Fri Jul 23, 2004 5:41 pm |
|
still dont get it....
if one tooth on the crank sprocket equals "x" degrees...then whem it turns and pulls the belt 1 degree ound the belt will pull the cam sprockets one tooth round too surely??
cos there is a fixed amount of teeth between the crank timing mark anf the cam timing mark?
(am pissed so may be wrong but by fuck im sure im right!) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
